The "back wire" to neutral is (shown in the wiring diagram) connected near the 2 relay for heating right down near the door angle, there should be L1 oder L" be also possible to connect.

You are sure what you do in electric ? Wont call an electrician ?



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This does not seem too complicated, but I can get guidance from my brother in law if needed. He is a master electrician.

OK, now I understand what you mean by "at the door". That is the electrics module and there I can get into the other side of 220V as the heater is also using 220V. So I think you mean to simply disconnect the cable to N (cover it of course) and run a fresh cable into the electronic at the door to get the other side of the 220V, yes? In the schematic I do see Circuit 13 there, 13/2 used with 13/1 next to it.

Zitat : sgbroimp hat am  2 Aug 2023 16:27 geschrieben :

This does not seem too complicated, but I can get guidance from my brother in law if needed. He is a master electrician. OK, now I understand what you mean by "at the door". That is the electrics module and there I can get into the other side of 220V as the heater is also using 220V. So I think you mean to simply disconnect the cable to N (cover it of course) and run a fresh cable into the electronic at the door to get the other side of the 220V, yes? In the schematic I do see Circuit 13 there, 13/2 used with 13/1 next to it.

Perhaps id could work if you connect 13/1 to the Neutral Line to the Pump you disconnected before. So easy...

Start Pumping, disconnect the pump at the 13/2 plug of electronic side and measure voltage there at both pins.

Here a german wiring diagram:

PDF anzeigen

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Antwortuhrzeiten: irgendwo zwischen 9-21 Uhr

Yes, my thinking exactly. I found a different 900 series German version and it showed 4/1 and 4/2 being used on the electronic but your diagram is better and so yes, I will find 13/1 and connect the pump "neutral" there. I can measure the voltage, sure, but if it is pumping like it should, that will tell me about all I need to know. This baby has to spin pretty fast.


By the way, you are right that this machine is strange, some 110, some 120. The motors have to work on 60 hz, however so must be special motors anyway so they figured back then to make them 110V also. In those days (1997) Miele sold few units in the US. If you buy a Miele washer today, it is 110V through and through.

The 50 vs. 60 sounds like nothing but back in 1975 I moved to FFM and brought my household goods including a 110V Kodak slide (Dia) projector. I bought a step up transformer 110/220 and showed some dias for an hour or so, then the unit burned out as it did not like the 50 hz. Important to note the new pump is 220V, yes, but 60 hz not 50 hz rated. Would this matter for a little pump that has cooling wheel and short cycles. Maybe not, but maybe so.

Most grateful for your help. Will follow up with details and results. You can see from this photo that the 220V/60 pump I have also has a ground connection, so I will run a green wire from there over to the grounding posts right lower side. I also made "jumpers" as the (non-reversible)connector for the old 110V pump will fit the new pump. It is special as polarity is important in 110V, but not for 220V as I understand.

By the way, the white housing gets removed as it is not for the W1926.

Zitat :

If you buy a Miele washer today, it is 110V through and through.

I cannot agree.

All are now fit with 220-240 components where correct voltage necessary.

Electronics can have a Voltage range, cause they have switching Power Supply, no Transformer, the new drum Motors get a three phase AC Voltage produced by the Power Electronic.

Have a look at a brand new Model:



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Here is what I was looking at. Says 120V in the tech specs. Scroll to View More Specs, then Technical Data

https://www.mieleusa.com/e/w1-front.....140-p

You're right for your model, I searched for older ones in the spare parts list.

In the spare party list they have 120V Heating Elements.

Perhaps Miele reduced the needed Power of the washing machines to reduce installation costs and to reduce the cause of power failure in weak networks.



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Antwortuhrzeiten: irgendwo zwischen 9-21 Uhr

That was not "my model" but rather a brand new one (current model) sold here in the US. The standard laundry room in the US has hot and cold water taps, a 220-240V outlet (only one, not two!) for a clothes dryer and a 110 Volt outlet for a washing machine. That is it. Since my washer was 220V (the W1926-USA/CDN model), the electrician had to split the single 220V dryer outlet so two outlets would be available. This is something I am sure Miele realized was a bad idea (extra expense for customer) long term, so at some point they began selling only 110-120V washers here.

Sunday I will have time to work on the pump matter again. Will let you know.

Let me see...How do you say it in German? Sitzt, Passt, (Wackelt) und hat Luft? I add "und pumpt". Did as you suggested. Forced the machine to drain, pulled the plug off the pump and measured the voltage between 13/1 and 13/2 at 238 Volts, so just what I needed. The "quick connector" at the electronic was already a duplex (double) with the 13/1 unused, so ran a wire to that, disabled the original neutral wire and replaced with the new one, fired up the machine and the new unit pumped like a world champion. Of course nothing is without adventure and when I saw a small bit of water dripping I thought I had a bad pump. Not the case, just have to be patient as there is some residual water from the "Flusensiebtunnel" that will drip for a minute or two.

So now all good and I am very grateful for your help and patience with me and my unusual Miele Washer.

Thank you ever so much. This forum is terrific!

Steve

Thanks for response, so you can tell Miele USA, if they dont know what to do they shall call us here in Germany or just you.

This answer above is shameful for them. Send this to     kundentelefon äht miele.de (automatisch editiert wegen spamgefahr)   

Have a nice time.



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VDE Sicherheitsregeln beachten !Haftungsausschluß:
Bei obigem Beitrag handelt es sich um meine private Meinung.
Rechtsansprüche dürfen aus deren Anwendung nicht abgeleitet werden.
Wer absolut keine Ahnung hat rufe eine Elektrofachkraft !
Diskussionen über Ersatzteilpreise sinnlos, interessiert mich nicht.
Antwortuhrzeiten: irgendwo zwischen 9-21 Uhr