Philips VR 2220 Snow in the horizontal middle

VR Philips 2220
Reparaturtipps zum Fehler: Snow in the horizontal middle
Im Unterforum Reparatur - Video-Geräte - Beschreibung: Videorecorder, Camcorder, DVD-Player und alles was mit Bildaufzeichnung zu tun hat.

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Elektronik- und Elektroforum Forum Index >> Reparatur - Video-Geräte Reparatur - Video-Geräte : Videorecorder, Camcorder, DVD-Player und alles was mit Bildaufzeichnung zu tun hat.

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Philips VR 2220 --- Snow in the horizontal middle
Suche nach Philips 2220

Ersatzteilshop für Haushaltsgeräte und Elektronik

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Perepandel

Gelegenheitsposter

Beiträge: 82
Wohnort: Miramar (Platja)

Geräteart : Geräteart auswählen
Defekt : Snow in the horizontal middle
Hersteller : Philips
Gerätetyp : VR 2220
Chassis : Video 2000
Messgeräte : Multimeter
______________________

Hi all!

Some months ago I managed to get from Wallapop (R) a VR 2120 / VR 2220 pair from Philips. This is a V2000 machine in two parts, designed to make the magnetoscope part portable for attaching it to a Videocamera. This was the one we had at home when I was a kid, and it died one day when a damaged tape got caught inside it, damaging the video heads. Well, that was what they told us. The machine would still "work", but a kind of diagonal, multicoloured moving stripes would superimpose over the screen. It never got serviced and was replaced by a VHS (the format war had already come to an end) and it was stored for some time until, about 15 years ago, when eBay was starting, I managed to buy a couple of videoheads. Without any further knowledge and without proper tools neither any service manuals, and of course without knowing about this forum, I dissassembled it and not only caused even more damage to the machine but I wasn't able to reassemble it again. Frustrated, it ended on the trash bin (the same final destiny that, years before, deserved the V2000 video camera my dad also owned, although still being functional).

Well, now to this machine. The owner said she didn't know nothing about the working state of it. It belonged to her father and had been stored for years in a garage. The 1st thing that happened when I turned it on was having a little explossion - that was the filtering capacitor at the beginning of the power supply, just behind the outlet. Waited for weeks until my order of replacements arrived home (I've learned to be patient and to be very careful in order to avoid further damaging thinks). After that I carefully observed it before putting a tape inside it. I thought I should attempt at least a head cleaning. With the tape lift open, looking at the head drum, I noticed what seemed black spots. Examining them further I came to the conclusion that it was corrossion. I thought there was no hope for this machine, but remembered of a very delicate polishing method with toothpaste. So I got the service manual after some googling and disassembled it. Appart from carefully cleaning the case (it was heavily dirty), I took off case and the lift. Spent many days polishing the drum with very care to avoid touching the head themselves, and afraid that too much polishing would "deform" the piece and suspecting that the tiny horizontal lines in the head were starting to vanish, I ended the job leaving a very shiny surface, with the corroded parts not being noticed anymore by touch and almost invisible to the eye. The corroded stains (which maybe made a 5% of the surface or more) felt very raw at touch and probably would have been acted as a sanding paper for the video tapes, permanently damaging them for sure, so I thought I had nothing to lose...

The more I inspected the machine, the more damage I found. After carefully cleaning the drum and the heads themselves and every other head, sensors, rollers and the threading mechanism with alcohol, I noticed that two little rubber pieces that looked like tiny "brakes" for the winding motors were heavily eroded, like shoes that have lost their soles, probably causing the chilling, high-pitched sound I was hearing when stopping play or re(wind) (without any tape yet). I spent weeks figuring out how to replace those little pieces. Started making molds with plaster from the original pieces, but they ended being destroyed everytime I tried to take off the original one from there. Started getting semi-"decent" moulds using hot glue around it, and finally ended getting some two-component silicon, which is the professional product for making casts of figures and/or pieces. Also there was the problem of "sculping" over the damaged piece to restored the eroded area before making casts. It was so difficult as no clay/epoxy or whatever other material I had available would stick to that rubber, but finally I overcame it. Got some nice, hand made little "brakes" made from latex, which looked of a similar consistency like the original ones, and also strong enough.

Another broken part were 4 little cables that connected, to provide grounding, the tape lift mechanism to the metal casing. Only on of them was still in its place, with the other ones having been disconnected or even completely missing.

Also I greased almost every part as stated in the service manual, except for the ones that weren't accessible without disassembling problematic / very delicate parts. Avoided WD-40 as I've read it attracts moisture, and used white lithium grease in place of the "Molykote DX" and some "medium" diesel car oil instead of the "heavy-medium" Mobil DTE oil they stated on the manual (I hope my replacements are good enough...).

This took me months to accomplish, but finally a couple of days ago I made the 1st playing attempt. I tried with a tape that came with the maching (thus not knowing the state of the tape). No tape jams happened, and it worked, but with noticeable snow / those white "sparks" or dots that become enlarged horizontally, mainly in the horizontal middle of the screen, progressively disappearing until the top and bottom of the screen, almost totally free from sparkles. Different areas of the screen happened to display more or less sparkles, being consistent between successive playing attempts. Another think I suspected was happening was something damage being done to the tape. Like if some pinching happened over a 1 cm area or so of the tape after unthreading it. Although I'm 99% sure, I couldn't assure it that they weren't there already. And also that didn't happen when playing a know tape, one I have been owning for years with some cartoons on it (and that looked with heavier snow and drops than the previous tape, probably to being in very bad shape).

So for, I have 2 issues with this machine: 1st of all, determine if the tape pinching is really happening (I'm afraid of trying with other tapes as I don't want to damage them) and, if that's the case, how to overcome this. I think I remember reading that uses to happen when the pinch rollers have been damaged (mine seem to look fine but also remember reading that a very little, unnoticeable deformity could cause it). Yesterday I got a reply from a message on a Youtube video where someone serviced this same machine and he said he got brand new pinch replacements, but in its answer he said that they don'te exist anymore. Also I'm afraid that some microscopic alteration on the head drum surface shape due to the polishing process could be causing the problem, thus being unrecoverable. Or even that tinning the little stripes, which I remember reading were done to improve adherence of the tape to the heads, is causing some loosening and causing the snow and/or the pinching...

The 2nd one is that in the same video (https://youtu.be/5TByobEzl-4) as well as in some Dutch forum post for the same machine (http://mfbfreaks.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=3021) they take off the "bridge" over the drum, and clean both the tiny contacts and the metal plate / tracks from the "bridge" itself and that seems to improve image quality (I remember doing it and noticing improvement in the Grunding machines I atempted to service some years ago). But I'm afraid of permanently damaging the machine / misaligning the DTF system or the video heads if I do that. What do you think? They also seem to do always the same operation in the bottom of the machine, where there is another plate with metal tracks belonging to the bottom of the drum mechanism. It seems both operations would improve playing quality, but again I'm afraid of touching it. So I'm asking for recommendations on that. What would you do?